Honda HR-V: Overhaul
ALTERNATOR OVERHAUL
Special Tools Required
Bearing Driver
Attachment, 42 x
47 mm
07746-0010300
Driver Handle, 15
x 135L
07749-0010000
Exploded View
1. Alternator Exploded View
Fig. 1: Alternator Exploded View With Torque Specifications
Disassembly
NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View if needed during this procedure.
1. Heat Shield and Bracket - Remove
2. Terminal Insulator - Remove
3. Rear Housing/Stator Assembly and Drive-End Housing/Rotor Assembly -
Separate
- Remove the four through bolts.
- Heat the rear bearing seat with a heat gun for about 5 minutes
(122-140ºF (50-60ºC) ).
- Separate the rear housing from the drive-end housing by inserting a
flat-tip
screwdriver into the openings and prying them apart.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage
the stator with the tip of the screwdriver.
- Separate the rear housing/the stator assembly (A) and the drive-end
housing/the rotor assembly (B).
4. Stator - Remove
5. Stator - Inspect
- Check for continuity between each lead (A). If there is no continuity,
replace the stator
- Check for continuity between each lead and the coil core (B). If there
is continuity, replace the stator.
6. Voltage Regulator/Brush Holder Assembly - Remove
7. Brush - Inspect
- Measure the length of both brushes with a vernier caliper. If either
brush is
shorter than the service limit, replace the brushes, go to step 2.
Standard (New): 23 mm (0.91 in)
Service Limit: 5 mm (0.20 in)
- Unsolder the brush leads from the voltage regulator/brush holder
assembly
with a 100 W soldering iron (A), then replace the brushes.
8. Rectifier - Remove
9. Rectifier - Inspect
Stator side
Rear housing side
- Check for continuity in each direction, between the B terminal and P
terminals,
and between the E terminal and P terminals of each diode pair. All diodes
should
have continuity in only one direction. Because the rectifier diodes are
designed to
allow current to pass in one direction, and the rectifier is made up of six
diodes (six
pairs), you must test each diode in both directions for continuity with an
ohmmeter
that has diode checking capability: a total of 24 checks. If any diode
fails, replace
the rectifier assembly. (Diodes are not available separately.)
10.Pulley - Remove
- Clamp the rotor in a soft-jawed vise
- Remove the pulley nut, then remove the pulley.
11.Rotor - Remove
- Remove the rotor using a puller as shown
- Inspect the rotor shaft for scoring, and inspect the bearing journal
surface in the
drive-end housing for seizure marks.
NOTE : If either the rotor or drive-end housing
is damaged, replace the alternator.
12.Rotor Slip Ring - Test
- Check for continuity between the slip rings (A):
- If there is continuity, go to step 2.
- If there is no continuity, replace the rotor assembly.
- Check for continuity between each slip ring and the rotor (B) and
the rotor shaft (C):
- If there is no continuity, replace the rear housing assembly.
- If there is continuity, replace the rotor assembly.
13.Rear Bearing - Remove
- Remove the rear bearing using the puller as shown.
14.Front Bearing - Remove
- Remove the front bearing retainer.
- Drive out the front bearing with a brass drift and a
hammer.
Reassembly
NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View if needed during this procedure.
1. Front Bearing - Install
- Install a new front bearing in the drive-end housing with a hammer, the
driver handle, 15 x 135L, and the attachment, 42 x 47 mm.
- Install the front bearing retainer.
2. Rear Bearing - Install
- Use a hand press to install a new rear bearing. Apply pressure only on
the inner race to avoid damaging the bearing.
3. Rotor - Install
- Install the spacer (A) and the rotor (B).
4. Pulley - Install
Fig. 2: Alternator Pulley With Torque Specifications
- Clamp the rotor in a soft-jawed vise
- Install the pulley.
5. Rectifier - Install
6. Voltage Regulator/Brush Holder Assembly - Install
7. Stator - Install
8. Drive-End Housing/Rotor Assembly - Install
- Remove any grease or oil from the slip rings
- Push the brushes (A) in, then insert a pin or drill bit (B) (about 1.8
mm
(1/16 in) diameter) to hold them in place
- Heat the rear bearing seat with a heat gun for about 5 minutes
(122-140ºF (50-60ºC) ).
- Put the rear housing assembly (A) and the drive-end housing/rotor
assembly
(B) together, tighten the four through bolts, and pull out the pin (C).
9. Terminal Insulator - Install
10.Heat Shield and Bracket - Install
READ NEXT:
Removal
1. 12 Volt Battery Terminal - Disconnect
2. 12 Volt Battery - Remove
Remove the 12 volt battery setting plate (A) and the 12 volt
battery (B).
Installation
1. 12 Volt Battery - Install
Removal & Installation
1. 12 Volt Battery Terminal - Disconnect
2. Auxiliary Under-Dash Fuse Box A - Remove
Remove the cover (B) from the auxiliary under-dash fuse
box A (A)
Remove the cable
SEE MORE:
The fuel tank unit consists of the following components.
2WD
AWD
FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM DESCRIPTION - JET PUMP (AWD)
Operation
The return fuel entering the jet pump from the fuel pressure regulator passes
through the orifice in the jet pump
to increase the flow speed, which generates increased suctio
Removal & Installation
1. Engine Undercover - Remove (With Engine Undercover)
2. Engine - Support
Lift and support the engine with a transmission jack and a wood block
under the oil pan.
3. Torque Rod - Remove
2WD
AWD
NOTE: When install the torque rod, be sure to install the torque rod wi